Read to the end, this will step your photos up.
My favorite software’s to work with are Photoshop, Gimp and corel paintshop pro not to be confused with CorelDRAW or photopaint.
Gimp v3 is excellent because not only is it free software but the Da Big Gimping v3 plug-in for gimp is awesome especially for wood.
V3 is still my go to process for wood photos and best of all it has proven to work on many more substrates.
This is kind of rare for a process to be so universal which is probably due to their algorithms within their software vs other brands algorithms.
This is why I put the effort into making substrate specific processes because sometimes that’s just ultimately best and helps my business operate smoother knowing what’s going to work.
The end result can look hundreds of ways but my processes are built so my own products get noticed and most importantly paid for in my markets. Whatever I can do y’all can do, it’s a matter of machine settings after you process your photo with my scripts and when you get busy enough you’ll not only love the best quality you’re going to love that it’s automated because that’s going to save you a world of time behind the computer screen and don’t forget the time it takes to dive as far as I have down this rabbit hole
Best of all updates are free across the board for Da master collection bundle and I’m soon adding my first process for fiber lasers that the master collection bundle will acquire. Otherwise the updates are still free but product specific such as photoshop, you’ll get updates for photoshop.
The attached Horse photo was done using the latest update for Adobe Photoshop called Da Sauce. I made this process to be easy to burn using low resolution but yet end with something that’s high quality and this one will save you a good amount of burn time. If you wish you can also raise the resolution and it gets even better, the downside is no
Matter what you can only go so high because of machine/lens limitations but do find where your limitations are with what you have. This was done with a 2.5” lens so it’s nothing fancy it’s actually less preferred vs the detail of a 1.5” lens the above result with the 2.5” compliments the photo process, settings and machine calibration. Do not trust a focus gauge for photos because close enough isn’t close enough when it comes to the precision photos require in order to truly sell them and grow interest.
How To Laser Engrave A Photo – Calibrate Machine Settings The Most Realistic Photo Engraving
Grab your focus gauge and a tile or something flat. Put it in any corner in your machine and focus it so it touches the flat substrate.
Now move that substrate to the rest of the corners and don’t touch the z height. If it isn’t perfectly touching or if the nozzle is too close to the substrate then your substrate is not level with your gantry and that can get tricky having 3 pieces to level so definitely this is a must otherwise when you do a big photo or use a different area of your bed you’re gonna go down a rabbit hole of guessing and get all kinds of random advice like adjust the contrast or something along those lines, maybe even suggesting to adjust your belts.
When the machine is calibrated it’s a matter of finding the settings to simply transfer and match the details of the processed photo on screen to the substrate and there’s a whole guessing game that goes with that and I think the worst thing to do is ask which settings to use so I found a way to simply find them changing only 1 of the many variables to directly get to the end goal and here’s how.
#1 most important, know your machine is actually calibrated, beam alignment, clean optics, substrate level with gantry “a level on your machine isn’t good enough” check as mentioned above. When you absolutely know then you’ll have comfort ruling out these variables. It’s the same comfort knowing I can trust my processes and not have to do anything else. I know this because I know my machines are absolutely calibrated and my processes are created with the same amount of detail I put into calibrating my machines not only to sell awesome photos but there’s no way you could build the best process without precision and patience.
Ok I know it’s a novel
#2 lock your speed to 175mm/s were not after speed right now, we’re looking to balance the speed and power scale.
#3 your min and max always the same, set your power to something so low you know it’ll do nothing.
#4 start your photo and yes nothing will probably happen but now is when we’re on a straight path to success because eventually we’re going to surpass the perfect power @175mm/s
#5 change your power on Da Fly. We’re only raising the power for awhile so in order to keep the min and max the same we raise the min power going upwards so go ahead and press the min power button on your controller as the photo is running, oh yeah! Please make the photo it’s intended size, going smaller with tests will only leave you scratching your head when you go bigger. After pressing min power you can probably make 1-5% jumps in the beginning just to get on with something showing up. Use the arrow keys to adjust your power and confirm with enter.
How To Laser Engrave A Photo – Keep Tuning The Power
Keep bumping only the power upwards until you say wow I’m doing it! The better and better it starts to look you’re gonna want to micro adjust your power level in tenths so .1 per change and yes you can really see what .1% does when you’re riding the line of perfection on just about any substrate so keep doing this and pay attention where you’re at on power because you’re going to keep going even if you think it’s good enough, I don’t stop at good enough so keep going until it turns from whoa to no! Then back the power back down to absolute perfection of what the substrate/lens will give you.
A photo can look many many ways but there’s only 1 spot on result, this is how you get it. yes the process “scripts” absolutely matter, that’s directly responsible for the outcome when all the variables are in order as they should be.
I added some extra photos to this post “Da Pup” so you can visualize down to the detail of transferring the detail on screen zoomed to 100% to substrate and all of the information above is exactly how you achieve this.
At this point is when a photo process can be seen for what it’s worth. A photorealistic result that your customers will prefer to buy over your competition online or sitting next to you
I can scream it from a rooftop all day. do yourself a favor and get yourself the growing toolbox for photos and implement the above. I can get into much more information but this is your foundation to success with photos. Let me tell ya, photos always sell year round and every one of them means something more to your customers so it’s a staple service to offer for me which happens to be my passion.
I forgot to add that after you balance the power at 175mm/s you can later increase your speed but once you do so the scale loses balance so remember what your detail looked like at 175mm/s because eventually you’ll simply exceed the tubes limit to fire fast enough going too fast and you’ll lose detail or if you’re using a script using halftones your round dots will oblong. Increase speed in the same fashion, start at 50mm/s faster and then you’re gonna have to bump your power up in micro increments to once again balance the power with speed but this way our only new variable “speed” won’t jump so far ahead with settings for power never to be found again or you quit photos.
We can get into the whole focus variable soon.